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Showing posts from January, 2012

Adjusting valve train

It is time for adjusting the valve train. The engine fires in the following order : 1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2. I´m starting by turning cyl 1 in TDC compression stroke (intake and exhasut valve are both closed). Adjusting both roller rockers on cyl 1 to zero lash and then a 1/2 turn preload before nut on roller rocker is locked. Then turn engine clockwise 90 degrees and cyl 8 is TDC compression stroke. Do both roller rockers on cyl 8. Continuing this and all cylinders a done by 720 degrees on crank.



New pushrods and oil pan received

Last week I checked for correct pushrod length. Last year I bought 16 TrickFlow pushrods of length 7.250". They were too long. I also checked how my stock 7.20" pushrods was (length) - they also were a tad too long.  But with new TrickFlow 7.150" long pushrods the wear mark is spot on center of valve stem. See picture below. The TrickFlow kit comes with guideplates. It is very important that pushrods are made for guidplates. If not you will probably run into problems sooner or later.



I also got a new Canton street/strip oil pan. The pan was mounted and tested for clearance. No problem with clearance. The pan is 7 qt and converted to metric this is about 6.6 litres I belive. 


PTV clearnce

Piston To Valve clearance is easy to check. Get some model clay. Put the clay ontop of piston and put some engine oil ontop of clay to prevent it from sticking to the valves. Mount top with a few bolts (including gasket). Remember to use measure springs to have correct lift. Chad Golen told me that there should be plenty of clearance with my cam profile - no need to check. I still wanted to check (for fun) and as Chad said - there is plenty of clearing for my setup. The exhaust valve does not touch the clay at all, the intake valve is just touching the clay.


Installing valve train

The trickFlow head and cam kit includes 1.6 roller rockers. The rockers are "non self aligning" type and need guide plates for pushrods (which also is included in kit). Pushrods are not included and it is important to remember that guide plates needs special pushrods. I also have hydraulic lifters and that requires special measure springs to be installed before checking pushrod length. Stock valve springs will compress lifters (because no oil pressure) and you will not measure correct length of pushrod. You can use a solid lifter to check with stock springs (it is probably easier to use special measure springs)..

The procedure to check is :


(1) Install top onto cylinders 1,3,5,and 7 (I´m using only a few bolts to keep the head in place). Head-gasket is also installed.(2) Put cyl #1 in TDC (compression stroke).(3) Replace stock springs with measure springs cyl #1 (using a special tool for that)

The goal for correct length is to get the roller part of the rocker to sweep aroun…

Installing cam and timing gear

Zappa (my 8-year old flat coated retriever) as always asks if he can help out. I carefully after oiling the cam, installed the cam into engine. The gear (above cam) for waterpump is also installed. The
waterpumpgear is driven by camgear. The timing gear is a Lunati gear. There is not to many timing gears available for the gen II LT1. I could upgrade to later model timing chain but that requires new opti, new timing cover. I have already got the spline driven MSD opti replacement.





There is a mark on both camsprocket and cranksprocket. Carefully align marks at 6 oclock camsprocket and 12 oclock cranksprocket (dowelpin at 3 oclock). Cylinder #6 is at TDC by this position.



According to camspeq the lobe centerline intake is 108 degrees. I´m using this for checking that cam is properly installed. First to do is finding true TDC cyl #1 (by TDC means compression stroke). I´m using a "piston stopper" to find true TDC. After finding true TDC I install the clock on lifter intake cyl …